Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
IFF x Kemira
Joint venture Alpha Bio will use IFF’s proprietary Designed Enzymatic Biomaterials technology to provide greener alternatives to fossil-based ingredients.
International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) and global chemical company Kemira—which previously entered into a long-term collaboration with Spinnova in 2020—have formed a joint venture for the commercial-scale production of renewable biobased materials.
Dubbed Alpha Bio, the venture received an investment of approximately $140 million (130 million euros) to convert up to 44,000 metric tons of plant sugars into bioproducts, with the Alpha Bio facility set to start production in late 2027, seemingly at the IFF’s biorefinery in Kotka, Finland.
“Operating as an independent entity in Kotka, Finland, the joint venture will manufacture a specific line of products enabled by [Designed Enzymatic Biomaterials] technology for exclusive use by IFF and Kemira,” a company statement reads. “The creation of Alpha Bio is expected to generate approximately 30 direct new jobs in the Kotka area with additional job creation during the project’s construction phase.”
With a strong industrial base along the Kemijoki River, according to Kotka’s business website, the city’s port is a major hub for exports to the wood, paper and pulp industries. Google’s data center in the nearby Hamina helped pique the interest of more digitalized industries, including cleantech and the bioeconomy.
The facility’s outputs—including “high-performance” biopolymers—will serve several sectors, including home, personal care and industrial solutions. The Alpha Bio venture will use IFF’s Designed Enzymatic Biomaterials (DEB) platform technology as integrated at its aforementioned biorefinery.
“Our partnership with Kemira has reached a significant milestone, enabling us to scale the production of groundbreaking biobased materials to meet the large and growing demand for high-performing and sustainable alternatives to fossil-derived polymers,” said Erik Fyrwald, CEO of IFF. “IFF’s DEB technology not only guarantees superior purity and consistency compared to traditional biopolymers but also enhances performance across various applications. This innovative approach allows us to combine biodegradability and material sustainability while maintaining cost efficiency and the high performance our customers expect.”
Developed over the past decade, the DEB platform “leverages deep expertise in biotech research, process development and product commercialization,” per IFF Health & Biosciences, to “create polysaccharides from the enzymatic polymerization of simple sugars.”
In layman’s terms, this means that DEB uses plant sugars and natural enzymes to create biobased materials (such as biopolymers) in eco-friendly conditions. Using this enzymatic polymerization process, the resulting materials can be customized for different applications (such as home goods or personal care), giving manufacturers a feasible swap for the traditionally used fossil-fuel-based polymers. Kemira holds global exclusivity for the commercialization of DEB biomaterial in the Paper, Board and Water Treatment markets.
“Since 2020, we’ve been collaborating with IFF using the DEB platform technology, which has allowed us to bring sustainable innovation to our key markets,” said Antti Salminen, CEO of Kemira. “The new joint venture will build on this initial success, enabling us to scale up production and provide new performance-competitive alternatives to fossil-based products in key markets, including paper and board packaging, paper coatings and water treatment, while continuing to develop opportunities across other growth markets.”
Spinnova
Woodspin Oy, the exclusive producer and distributor of Spinnova’s wood-based fiber, is jointly owned by the Finnish fiber firm and the Brazilian cellulose producer, Suzano. Following the plant’s strategic review in February—which saw Suzano share its intent to cease collaborations as the eucalyptus pulper said it would not invest further in Woodspin’s next phase of cooperation and will temporarily halt financing the facility—the venture has now initiated change negotiations.
Two options are on the table: continue operations or close them down.
“Woodspin’s operations have a heavy cost structure and are unprofitable,” Spinnova said in a statement. “Turning the operations profitable is likely to require significant investments and securing sufficient financing is uncertain.”
In 2024, Woodspin’s loss was around $7.25 million (6.7 million euros). Spinnova’s share of loss was around $3.7 million (3.4 million euros). As of the end of last December, the book value of Woodspin on Spinnova’s balance sheet was around $21 million (19.4 million euros).
“The scope of the change negotiations covers the entire staff working at Woodspin, a total of 33 employees, and all may be subject to the contemplated measures, including possible redundancies of all employees,” per the statement from Spinnova. “Decisions on the personnel impact of Woodspin will be made after the change negotiations have been concluded. The estimated duration of the change negotiations is at least six weeks.”
According to the current estimate, the statement reads, the outcome will be implemented “as soon as possible” following the verdict, occurring no later than the end of December 2025. Spinnova said it expects this strategic assessment to be completed within “the next few months” and will update the market—including financial guidance—when appropriate.
Modern Meadow
Karmuel Young INNOVERA 4in1 Jumpsuit.
Biomaterial company Modern Meadow announced that Karmuel Young, founder of the Karmuel Young label, used the company’s biomaterial in his Sustasia Fashion Prize submission. The Hong Kong-based designer used Modern Meadow’s Innovera, formerly known as Bio-Vera, in his four-in-one garment that transitions from a jumpsuit to a long coat, short jacket and pants.
“We are honored that Karmuel Young chose to use our Innovera biomaterial in his Sustasia Fashion Prize design to showcase the beauty and versatility of sustainable innovative materials in clothing,” said David Williamson, CEO of Modern Meadow. “We, like the organizers of the Sustasia Fashion Prize who seek to address sustainability within the fashion industry, are inspired by nature and driven by purpose to introduce new materials and processes that can enable a healthier future for our planet.”
Young, whose brand focuses on a “modern masculine wardrobe,” used camel Innovera in suede to create “a multi-functional piece with a modern twist” for men in various styles. Innovera is engineered to replicate the look and feel of the collagen found in traditional leather, crafted using plant-based proteins, biopolymers and recycled rubber. The resulting material features over 80 percent renewable carbon content that’s 25 percent lighter and twice as strong, Modern Meadow said.
“This is my first convertible look, and it will give men more options to style their wardrobes in a timeless, sustainable way,” Young said. “Modern Meadow’s Innovera has the smell, look and feel of luxury and held its form well across my stitching and buttons. Being able to do good by using biomaterials and thinking about my impact on earth is very important to my designs and I look forward to incorporating more of these materials in the future.”
Dahsheng Chemical (DSC)
DSC celebrated 80 years with DURAPONTEX eN35: a “revolutionary” supercritical fluid foaming insole.
Performance foam manufacturer Dahsheng Chemical (DSC) celebrated its 80th anniversary with a new insole offering: Durapontex eN35. Using DSC’s supercritical fluid foaming technique, the insole is engineered for high-impact and jump-dominant sports while remaining lightweight.
“We designed the Durapontex eN35 for the athlete who demands high-energy return in a lightweight package,” said Fennie Wei, COO of DSC. “By leveraging our own proprietary Durapontex N-Series supercritical fluid foaming technology and specialized formulation, the Durapontex eN35 exhibits a significant advancement in lightweight technology. This new material offers powerful energy rebound, yet in an even lighter form, which the elite athlete craves.”
As part of the Durapontex N-Series, the Durapontex eN35 was designed to “deliver resiliency and rebound” for sports like basketball, volleyball and tennis—those with a lot of quick moves and jumps. Made with a low-density performance and 100 percent recyclable foam, per DSC, its high-rebound insole can adapt to various stressors without risking structural integrity issues.
Toray Industries
Toray said it will continue to pursue R&D to realize a sustainable, circular society as part of ongoing efforts to realize its corporate philosophy.”
Technology and advanced materials company Toray will adopt the mass balance approach—one that considers both biomass and plastic waste—starting this month, in manufacturing its “Toraylon” acrylic staple fiber.
“A mass balance approach is one by which raw materials with certain characteristics (an example being biomass-derived) are mixed with other raw materials (such as petroleum-derived ones) in the processing and distribution process, from raw materials through finished products,” Toray explained. “Characteristics are attributed to part of a product in line with input proportions of raw materials with those characteristics.”
That said, Toray is working with both recycled materials and biobased materials, particularly in relation to nylon and polyester fibers. In this respect, acrylic fibers have been “a challenge,” per Toray, due to “a lack of waste resource of this single material.” Theoretically, using the mass balance approach allows Toray to offer value-added Toraylon that’s also more environmentally conscious. Toray shared its plans to push forward with a life cycle assessment verification with its supply chain partners and apply for a review for inclusion in the Higg Index as well.
The Japanese chemist said it has already obtained International Sustainability & Carbon Certification (ISC) Plus certification for this mass balance approach offering. This certification “enables companies to demonstrate that they use sustainable raw materials and ensure transparency and traceability across their supply chains,” Toray said.
