Adidas sees sneaker success, but golf woes

The dark days of Adidas may be over.

The German apparel giant released its full-year 2015 results and 2016 outlook on Thursday, and it had good news to share: net income at the Adidas Group (which includes Adidas, Reebok, and golf club maker TaylorMade) grew 29% over the year before; Adidas and Reebok brand global sales grew 16% and 5.4% respectively; and most promisingly, sales for Adidas brand grew 12% in the U.S., where it has struggled for years. For 2016, the group forecasts 10% to 12% sales growth, but gross profit decline of 1% as a result of rising production costs in China.

Its stock has also fared well: Adidas (ADDYY) is up 36% in the past year, which outperforms the larger German market and slightly outshines Nike (NKE) and Under Armour (UA), which are up 25% and 10% respectively.

But as Morningstar apparel analyst Paul Swinand puts it, “Great brands don’t get torn down in a year, and they don’t get built back up in a year.” Adidas is on a slow climb back from a hellish 2014, in which its global revenue fell for the second straight year and net income hit its lowest point since 2009 (in U.S. dollars; Adidas typically adjusts for currency fluctuations when it reports its financials). It will take time to achieve a turnaround, but the U.S. sales bump in 2015 is noteworthy because it’s U.S. footwear that has most dogged the three stripes in this decade. Adidas footwear has steadily lost market share in America to Nike and Skechers (surprise!). In apparel, Under Armour surpassed Adidas in 2014 as the No. 2.

Now the company is enjoying a buzzy boost thanks to stars like Pharrell Williams (Adidas redesigned its Superstar line around the singer and sold 15 million pairs of the sneaker in 2015) and Kanye West, whose Yeezy Boost line has been a major hit with sneakerheads. “The Yeezy is by far the hottest shoe and is selling for the largest premium above retail,” says Josh Luber, CEO of StockX, a stock market for sneakers. The Yeezy Boost 350, a lowtop sneaker, retailed for $200 at its release last year, and is now going for $1,200-$1,400 on the resale market. It didn’t hurt when West released a new single on New Year’s Eve, called “Facts,” that is essentially an anti-Nike rant, with lyrics like, “Nike, Nike treat employees just like slaves; gave LeBron a billi not to run away.”

The Yeezys, along with the fruits of other design collaborations with celebrities and hip-hop stars, fall under the category of Originals, which is Adidas’s street/lifestyle segment. The company doesn’t break out the numbers for Originals from the rest of Adidas brand, but analysts say the growth is there. That can be a double-edged sword: The company has always had success with street fashion, but risks consumers forgetting that it’s an athletic brand. And Adidas has spent big on its stars: marketing costs rose by 30% in the fourth quarter. Longtime CEO Herbert Hainer says it's all worth it: "Game-changing cooperations with Kanye West, Pharrell Williams or Rita Ora created buzz for the brand on an on-going basis," he said after the earnings.